Visitors will leave their vehicles before being guided to the tourist information centre then to the pedestrian pathways dotted with information panels on the architectural and historic richness of the site. Each pathway will join the new dam and shuttle departure site located some 750 metres from the car park. Visitors can then choose to travel on foot , by shuttle or horseback along the causeway to access the Mont. The new car park opens on the 28th April 2012.

Individual vehicles will be charged 8.5 euros although this price includes free travel on the shuttle bus. It will also be possible to pay extra and travel by the Maringote, a double decker vehicle pulled by two horses; a specific shuttle, La Montoise, will be available for disabled people and to carry those that live and work on the Mont. The final 350 metres of the journey for everyone is across a specially constructed pedestrian bridge to preserve a clear view to the Mont and the bay.

The aim of the project is to allow the Mont once more to become an island  in the middle of its water environment

So it came as something of a shock to find my Normandy home temporarily hidden one morning by a blanket of heavy snow that turned the whole scene into an astonishingly beautiful winter wonderland.  No need to worry about any traffic chaos. The road was closed and that was that!!

For the village children the snow brought  great news as there was no sight of the early morning school bus. By lunchtime, with every farmer and his dog nowadays in possession of the very latest in farm vehicles and equipment, a few heavy tractors were heard churning their way down the lane followed by a clutch of grateful cars taking advantage of an unsolicited act of road clearance. Despite the passing of a few brave drivers and their vehicles, the snow settled and the village was virtually cut off for three or four days. It was gloriously sunny and the snow was so soft in our temporary village hideaway.

The winters tend to be long over here in Normandy and the pace of life always seems so relaxed that is seems inconceivable that things could get any slower.  But when the snow falls everything comes to a standstill. For a few days it is possible to do absolutely nothing and just sit back and enjoy a fabulous landscape and a few days of complete solitude. Never thought you would hear me say it – but I just love to see the snow and a chance to go walking in my winter wonderland.

It is always a pleasure to return to this quaint little town which displays a large variety of antique shops and some of the best cafés and eating places in Lower Normandy. There is so much to see that you could well spend the whole day there. If you have the time it is recommended that you visit the working copper shop. We  saw this sign and had to go in -  Atelier du Cuivre. It was a combination museum and workshop and was in full swing with men pounding madly on sheets of copper while others were melting and pouring it. We signed up for the tour which was very interesting. I must admit a highlight was the owner’s dog. He had a tennis ball and had free run of the workshop. He was amazing and he never went where he wasn’t allowed. Great fun!

Every Tuesday throughout the year Villedieu has one of the best markets in Manche.  At the height of the summer season the town is packed with both locals and visitors,  and there are stalls selling everything from local farm produce to mens’ and ladies’ clothes! The market finishes around lunchtime with the smell of barbecued food usually proving  irresistable.

There are plenty of good eating places in the town. Le Fruitier is just one example. This large hotel now boasts a Bistro serving excellent lunchtime snacks and a restaurant that offers both comfort and some excellent local Normandy cuisine. If you get the chance – sample the lamb. A real treat!!

                              Le Fruitier in Villedieu-les-poeles

At La Merveille we had a record summer and welcomed guests from many parts of the World. Even a few fellow English managed to escape  their  ravaged economy  to pay respect to Miss Ronald and her Michelin standard cooking. The French, bless them, have at last recognized that we are here to stay and they seem to be booking in ever increasing numbers.

The animal population grew when two delightful little goaties were engaged to demolish the weed jungle around the boulangerie. Mission accomplished the male decided that the swimming pool was now the place to be. Sadly goats are not good swimmers and the local goat population was reduced by exactly 50%.

 Probably the most pleasing reaction from guests in 2010 was to the food. We took a risk and offered evening meals throughout the year and even to large groups. The menu combined the best of local produce with a few fond memories from Angleterre. Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes crossed the Channel to a chorus of approval. The Ronald Apple Crumble has already become a local legend.

For my business partner, Elise, 2010 was her last year at University and probably the last time she can afford to spend so much time at La Merveille raising my hopes and expectations and always producing the most amazing results. It took me four long frustrating years in France to find the perfect partner and helper – but it was well worth the wait.

 There is an old saying that goes, “Don’t cry because it is over, smile because it happened.”  I can do more than smile – I can look forward to the future with renewed optimism and a strong desire to make La Merveille simply the best Chambres d’hotes in Normandy.

A very Happy New Year to all those that have visited us in recent years – we hope that you will come again. To the rest of you – what the hell are you waiting for?!!!

The visitor’s centre at the cemetery includes a short film depicting the life and death of just a few of those that remained behind when the fortunate few returned to their homeland to celebrate peace. The experience helps clear the mind of your own problems and petty grumbles. It is a deeply emotional experience and one that I shall never forget.

The Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial in France is located on the site of the temporary American St. Laurent Cemetery, established by the U.S. First Army on June 8, 1944 and the first American cemetery on European soil in World War II. The cemetery site, at the north end of its ½ mile access road, covers 172.5 acres and contains the graves of 9,387 of the military dead, most of whom lost their lives in the D-Day landings and ensuing operations. On the Walls of the Missing in a semicircular garden on the east side of the memorial are inscribed 1,557 names. Rosettes mark the names of those since recovered and identified.

The memorial consists of a semicircular colonnade with a loggia at each end containing large maps and narratives of the military operations; at the center is the bronze statue, “Spirit of American Youth.” An orientation table overlooking the beach depicts the landings in Normandy. Facing west at the memorial, one sees in the foreground the reflecting pool; beyond is the burial area with a circular chapel and, at the far end, granite statues representing the U.S. and France.

It was a time when men were thrust into situations they could not really comprehend – when some soldiers drowned (or were shot) before they ever reached the Normandy shore.  As one D-Day fighter, an American named Albert Nervo, told a reporter for the Akron Beacon Journal in 1965:

Your mind blanks out in times like that. Your brain can’t register what your eyes are trying to tell you.

The cemetery is open to the public daily except on December 25 and January 1. Hours of operation are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. from April 15 to September 15, and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. the rest of the year.

Between 1590 and 1594, Saint-Malo declared itself a republic. This independent spirit has given Brittany a large number of famous figures, adventurers, sailors, and writers. Jacques Cartier the “discoverer” of Quebec, took the local architecture to the Canadian province. The town became prosperous thanks to the feats of its explorers, such as Duguay-Trouin, Surcouf, and others. Chateaubriand, who is buried not far from the ramparts, made his hometown famous on the artistic level; he is widely acknowledged as the father of literary romanticism.

It was only in the Second World War that Saint-Malo suffered its first real defeat, being totally destroyed by bombing and fire in 1944. However, the Malouins proved their tenacity once again, and simply rebuilt the town, stone by stone, once the war was over. It was practically identical once they’d finished. So it’s paradoxically a recent town, but very traditional to look at. And the locals are very proud of it. It still resembled a rather austere fortified town, within the ramparts, from which you can get a fine view, maybe making out the king’s ships sailing into port?

On a recent visit to the town I explored the shops and houses inside the old walled town. There were so many welcome surprises with some splendid shops selling all that Brittany has to offer.  The cafés and restaurants suit every taste. When you need to relax for a while,  just mount the ramparts and look out to sea and admire the view. It really makes for a most wonderful day out.

Saint-Malo is also a major ferry port, for destinations such as England and Ireland. It has a long beach, numerous off-lying islands, a fine castle, and a beautiful centre of town. It’s one of the most visited towns in Brittany, and its doors are wide open to you!

A trip to Mont St-Michel starts with driving over the 1km causeway that links the island to mainland. The original thin natural land-bridge used to be covered during high tide, isolating the Mount, but following construction of the causeway you’re now safely directed to the appropriate car park by the walls where there’s no danger your car will get washed away! Well not if they get it right.

On entering the Mount’s protective walls through the Boulevard Gate, and then the King’s Gate fortified with its portcullis, you continue up the narrow winding Grand Rue (Main Street) which leads up through the medieval 15th and 16th century village. Along both sides are arrayed a variety of boutique and souvenir shops as well as several restaurants including traditional pancake snack-bars right up to 5-star silver service with stunning views overlooking Mont-Saint-Michel bay. There are also a few hotels tucked into the walls if you fancy a truly memorable overnight stay.

Further up you reach the 15th century parish church of St Pierre (the patron saint of fishermen) and then four different museums within the walls of the Mount:

• Archéoscope – The construction and history of Mont St Michel;
• Maritime Museum – Discover the 12m tidal range in the bay and the massive works to restore the maritime character of the Mont Saint-Michel;
• Museum of History – A series of collections of weapons, paintings, sculptures in some of the prisons and dungeons of the Mount;
• Tiphaine’s house – Furniture’s, paintings and tapestries from the 14th century residence that Bertrand Duguesclin had built for his wife Tiphaine.

Finally you reach the Grande Degre (Grand Staircase) which leads up to the Merveille (literally ‘marvel’) the 3-storey 12th century monastery and abbey that crowns the hilltop. You can walk round the abbey either unaccompanied using the supplied guide booklet, or for a small supplement there’s an audio-guide tour available in English as well as French.

Mont St Michel is open every day of the year apart from the 1st of January, the 1st of May and the 25th of December.

In the 10th century the Benedictine monks settled in the abbey, constructing the Romanesque abbey church with its high vaulted ceilings and moulded arches, monastery and crypts at the apex of the rock, whilst a village grew up below its walls at the bottom of the mount.

Through successive centuries of the Middle Ages and with increasing numbers of monks and pilgrims both the abbey and village were extended until in the 13th century they stretched down to the foot of the rock.

By the 14th century and the Hundred Years war, the abbey had to be protected behind a massive set of military ramparts, enabling it to hold out successfully through many English sieges lasting over 30 years and in doing so the Mount became a symbol of French national identity.

In 1421 the original Romanesque chancel (choir) of the abbey church collapsed and was replaced in the 15th century by a flamboyant Gothic structure, marking completion of the last major construction works at the mount. The abbey today is thus an exceptional example of the full range of medieval architecture.

Over the 16th and 17th centuries religious ideals waned and the number of monks dwindled until by 1790 the monastery was disbanded and the monks left the mount. This paved the way for the fortress to be turned into a prison in 1793, a situation which lasted through the days of the French Revolution and Empire until imperial decree in 1863 finally overturned the sacrilege.

In 1874 Mont Saint-Michel was designated as a French historical monument and major works have continued now for over a century to restore the mount to its former splendour, improving both the abbey interior and exterior. With the celebration of the monastery’s 1000th anniversary in the year 1966, a religious community returned to the mount, perpetuating spiritual prayer and welcoming the mount’s original vocation.

Its only about  25 minutes drive from our B&B. If you take the river road from the A84 you are rewarded with some amazing views of the Mont as it gets ever closer. Le Mont St-Michel towers over the countryside for miles around like a mythical creature rising out of the sea and it is not surprising that there are over three million tourists visiting each year. From my experience about half of them – Japanese!!

Situated one kilometre off the coast of Normandy, the rocky island houses the famous eighth-century Norman Benedictine Abbey of St-Michel  that over the centuries has been both a site of spiritual pilgrimage and battle.

Named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979, the island is one of the most exceptional examples of religious and military architecture from the Middle Ages – hardly surprising therefore that Le Mont St-Michel became the inspiration the mystical Minas Tirith in The Lord of the Rings movies!

During the tourist season try and get there in the early morning if you dont want to queue for hours. The Mont will surely provide you with a unique and memorable experience.

At La Merveille we want you to enjoy every minute of your stay with us and that includes joining us at least once  for an evening meal. We usually offer four courses that we hope will appeal to all ages and all  members of the family.

Normandy is well known for its food and drink. The cooking is normally uncomplicated and the emphasis is always on local produce. Many  French restaurants seem reluctant to dish out all those lovely vegetables in any real  quantity. We beg to differ and  can promise a variety of delicious fresh local vegetables with every meal.

Our main courses include a variation of chicken in a cream sauce  and pork in cider  another dish which originated in Calvados. If you are really lucky you could be with us the evening we serve ‘Pre Sale’ lamb, probably reared on the salt plains around the Bay of Mont St Michel giving the meat a delicate extra taste. A roast dinner might seem a little out of place here in Normandy, but served with  delicious local vegetables it is still a great way to provide a hearty meal that everyone will enjoy.

Normandy is famous for its cheeses. Camembert is probably the best known internationally and is produced throughout the Region. We offer a selection of cheeses before serving our delicious desserts. Although the most famous Normandy dessert is apple tart, the most popular  with our customers has been  Chef’ Ronald’s  apple crumble special!  We are also very fortunate to be located next to the strawberry fields of Saint Pience.   Wash all this down with a glass of Cider or our  popular red Chenet,  and you are bound to leave more than satisfied. Bon appetite.

Christmas is also a useful time for reflection. In many ways 2009 has been  difficult  with many English blaming the credit crunch and weak exchange rate for not crossing the Channel this year.  I managed to crash my car,  but far sadder was the loss of my lovely breton spaniel, Vicomte, who was killed on what is usually a very quiet road. If you have visited us here you will certainly always remember Vicomte.

Recovering from a shock like that is not easy but such is the quality of life out here  that each new day brings its rapid compensations and soon lifts the spirit.  The pace of life here is as you want it to be. The countryside is beautiful and restores the soul.  Old traditions and ways die hard and it is so refreshing to see families still enjoying being families. Normandy has a lot to offer and Christmas here delivers a very real message of peace and love.

La Merveille could be the  ideal place for you to spend Christmas with your family and friends. Why not join us here  next year?  We would love to hear from you.

Christmas Shopping

Between the roundabout of the Champs-Elysees and the Place de la Concorde until December 28, some ninety  individual tents provide displays of  handicrafts  and local products – everything from  traditional Russian dolls to jewelry , and from tanners art to  Christmas decorations. You will also discover  festive tables of delicious food  with  Norwegian salmon, caviar, oysters, foie gras, meats, breads spices and chocolates.

Recreation & Games

Several restaurants offer sustenance and there  are many attractions  reserved for children  including a roundabout with wooden horses, a miniature train, a giant sledge and, of course,  the essential home of Father Christmas.

News 2009 

 A special Ice Magic  scene is the feature this year  in a refrigerated tent, with  the main monuments and buildings of Paris displayed  in ice and snow. This year  a tribute is also paid to  musicians in a  space called the Gypsy Camp. Here every night  guitarists, including Thomas Dutronc, David Reinhardt and  the Gypsy Angelo Debarre  will play.

 The avenue of the Champ-Elysees will be decorated and full of Christmas lights. Somewhere else that becomes a must  to visit if you  make it here next year!

B&B Normandy - La Merveille

Welcome to our new blog. Over the coming weeks and months don’t forget to stop by to keep up with the latest developments at our bed and breakfast in Normandy along with interesting features on the surrounding area and any other general news.

Thanks for stopping by!